Primary-source receipts from a trip we actually took

You only get so many of these while they're still small.
Here is what ours cost, to the cent.

Every "cost of a Grand Circle road trip" article stops at "budget around $X a day." None of them tell you what a family of five actually paid when the bill came. So here is ours: nine days, one rented RV, three kids — including the money we lost to our own mistakes.

See every line item No signup. It's all on this page.
Two adults, three kids Receipts, not estimates Mistakes included

What Trailhead is: primary-source expense receipts and raw itineraries from 12 years and 69 independent road trips across US national and state parks. Not polished brochure travelogues — the receipts down to the cent, and the operational failures, so you don't repeat them. This is the first record published in full. Nothing is for sale. Every trip starts at a trailhead.

The full ledger

November 2024. Family of five. Nine days. Here is the whole bill.

Two adults and three kids (ages 7, 4 and 1), one RV picked up and dropped off in Las Vegas, a loop around the Grand Circle. Nothing has been rounded down to look good. To prove that, this ledger is split into what I have a receipt for and what I am reconstructing from memory — because those are not the same kind of number.

① Receipted — accurate to the centWhat we paid
RV rental, 9 days (including final charges)$2,093.35
Campgrounds, 3 paid nights with receipts$250.49
Lower Antelope Canyon tour (the 1-year-old was free)$291.20
Zion e-bike rental (1 day, 2 adults + tow trailer)$248.52
Receipted total$2,883.56
② No receipt — reconstructed from records and memoryAmount
Food (cooked in the RV + eating out)~$900
Gas~$400
Campground, 1 night (Moab — I can't find the receipt)~$80
America the Beautiful annual pass (covers every park)$80
Zion: RVs pay an escort fee for the tunnel$15
Estimated subtotal~$1,475
① + ②   Total spent on the ground~$4,360

Note: we slept seven nights, three of them free (paid four). For Moab I've used $80 because the other campgrounds on this same trip ran $36–$115, so I split the difference rather than pretend I know.

What that number covers: a domestic trip, flown out of New York

We were living in New York in November 2024 and flew JFK ↔ Las Vegas (LAS). So the ~$4,360 above is the on-the-ground operating cost — RV rental plus everything we spent while out there. It does not include getting to Las Vegas.

So what did the flights cost? Here's the honest answer.

Round trip JFK ↔ LAS, 2 adults + 3 kidsWhat we actually paid
Delta award tickets130,400 miles
Cash portion (September 11th Security Fee)$11.20 × 2 confirmed

※ The flights are the one thing I can't give you a dollar figure for. They were booked on miles, so no cash total exists. The infant's receipt printed its total as "$NaN USD", and the receipts for the remaining two passengers aren't in my inbox. So I'm not going to invent a dollar value and add it to the total. What this trip actually cost was ~$4,360 in cash plus 130,400 miles. Nothing more, nothing less.

⚠ That $4,360 does move with the season

The figures above are November — off-season. Roughly half the on-the-ground cost ($2,093.35) is the RV rental, and that plus the paid campgrounds is what climbs in high season.

But we didn't travel in high season, so I'm not going to publish a multiplier or a number for it. The moment I put a made-up figure on this page, every real figure on it becomes worth less. The only total I can stand behind is the $4,360 we actually paid in November.

All I'll claim is the direction: if you can move your dates, that's the biggest saving available on this trip. If school calendars pin you down, you can still pick the cheapest week inside the window you've got.

All figures are actual November 2024 spend. RV rentals bill by the mile. Ours included 100 miles/day, we pre-bought another 800 miles for $280 — and still went 126 miles over, for another $49.14. Mileage estimates run optimistic. Your route changes the total.

And here are the six ways we got it wrong

A page that hides what went badly isn't worth reading
MISTAKE 1
The fridge door came open while we were driving and the tray broke
An RV fridge latches itself shut, but ours was an older unit and the catch had gone soft. We'd also loaded heavy items into the door pocket, so a hard corner was enough to throw it open. The replacement tray cost $12.21. One fix, and it's free — don't put heavy things in the fridge door.
MISTAKE 2
We missed the cheap Zion campground and booked the $100+ one instead
We didn't know when reservations open. The site we ended up at was great — but the same nights were available for less to anyone who knew the release date.
MISTAKE 3
Our youngest was too young for an activity we'd planned around
He couldn't join the canyoneering trip, so we rebuilt the day on the spot. Age minimums are published — that was a research failure, not bad luck.
MISTAKE 4
We got to the Valley of Fire full-moon night hike 10 minutes early and still missed it
Being early is what made me relax. Then we got three kids into shoes and coats, and pulled out ten minutes later. By the time we reached the meeting point everyone was gone. I had never budgeted for the time it takes to get three children out of a vehicle.
MISTAKE 5
We gave up on Cirque du Soleil in Las Vegas — nowhere to put the RV
I assumed we could park and never checked. This isn't a ticket problem: an RV simply can't go everywhere a car can. Any city stop has to be planned from the parking lot backwards.
MISTAKE 6
I forgot to tip our guide at Antelope Canyon
Smallest amount of money on this list and the one I still feel worst about. If you're booking tours, set aside cash for tips before you go.
All six were knowable in advance. That's the whole reason I publish these.
Get the full 9-day itinerary

The cost breakdown stays free and open on this page. The hour-by-hour itinerary is the one thing I ask for an email address for.

Who this is for

The trip you keep meaning to take, and keep postponing.

Everything I could find online was a range, an average, or a "typical" day rate. Nothing told me what it costs when five people actually finish the trip. So I wrote down mine.

You want to go, but you can't start

"We should take the kids to the Southwest." Then the research sprawls, nothing is decided, and it slides another year.

Nobody publishes the total

"From $X a night." "Average." "Typical." Nobody writes down what the whole thing came to for a specific family on specific dates.

You don't know what kids can handle

Can a 1-year-old go into a slot canyon? How far will a 4-year-old actually walk? Some of what you've written off is genuinely doable.

The window is now, not later

Retirement is too late for this particular trip. While they're small and you can still hike all day is the whole point.

What's on this page

Not an expert. A parent with a complete set of records.

01

Every dollar we spent

RV, gas, campgrounds, food, park pass, activities — itemized, with receipted and estimated figures kept visibly separate. All of it free on this page, no email required.

02

Nine days logged to the minute

What time we woke, what time we arrived, where we slept. Including recorded temperatures and the exact point each kid stopped walking. With the RV company and every campground we booked.

03

Six mistakes, written up in full

The gear we had to pay to replace, the campground we overpaid for, the night hike we missed by ten minutes. I'm not interested in publishing only the parts that went well.

Starting with the wild country.

The first record published in full is nine days around the Grand Circle in a rented RV with three kids. Behind it sit 12 years and 69 independent road trips, and I'm working through them at the same level of detail. If I ever start selling something, it will say so on this page.

Who's writing this

This started as the page I wanted and couldn't find.

"I want my kids to have something they'll never forget."

I'm a parent who took my wife and our three children (then 7, 4 and 1) to Las Vegas in November 2024, rented an RV, and drove the Grand Circle over nine days. I'm not a travel professional. There was just so much I wanted to know before we left and couldn't find, that I logged the entire trip minute by minute, door to door.

I still have those records, so I'm publishing them as they are. The door that came open and broke our gear is in there. So is the night hike we missed by ten minutes. Leave those out and the numbers stop meaning anything.

The nine days we actually drove

November 9–17, 2024. The order we drove it, and where we slept.

This isn't a suggested route. It's the order we actually did it in, round trip from Las Vegas, and where the RV was parked each night. November (off-season), two adults and three kids (7, 4, 1).

The Grand Circle loop — family of five, one RV, nine days

Round trip from Las Vegas / Graner Motorhome Rentals / as-driven log
DAY 1
Sat 11/9
Fly in from New York, pick up the RV in Las Vegas
Landed 9:48, RV handover at 11:00. The walkthrough took twenty minutes; unpacking took the rest of the day. Grocery run across Target, Walmart and a Japanese market, then slept in the Walmart lot — free. Pulled out at 23:25 and drove through the night to the Grand Canyon.
DAY 2
Sun 11/10
Grand Canyon — sunrise and the South Kaibab Trail
Sunrise at 7:00 from Yavapai Point. Five minutes' walk for a view that good, and quieter than Mather Point. Rented bikes and rode out to South Kaibab. Our daughter got scared early and turned back, so my son and I went on alone. Night at Trailer Village RV Park. Best stars of the whole trip.
DAY 3
Mon 11/11
Horseshoe Bend → Antelope Canyon → Monument Valley
Up at 2:00. Sunrise at Horseshoe Bend at 7:01, 1°C (34°F). Lower Antelope Canyon tour at 9:45 — billed as two hours, but one is plenty. We put the 1-year-old down and let them walk, and that was fine. Monument Valley at dusk, 17:13. Night at Goulding's.
DAY 4
Tue 11/12
Forrest Gump Point → Moab → Arches National Park
Sunrise at Forrest Gump Point at 6:56. We expected a scrum and got an empty road and the best photos of the trip. Bought the $80 annual pass at the Arches entrance at 11:10 (we'd entered the Grand Canyon before the booth opened and never paid). Double Arch is flat and ten minutes even with small kids. Night at Sun Outdoors Moab.
DAY 5
Wed 11/13
Canyonlands → Corona Arch → Capitol Reef
Sunrise at Mesa Arch at 6:57. Corona Arch, which we started at 10:30, was the best thing we did in nine days — and it's outside the park, so there's no entry fee. There are ladders and cables to climb, and I think that's exactly why the kids managed two and a half hours on it. Free overnight at Panorama Point.
DAY 6
Thu 11/14
Bryce Canyon → Zion
Up at 1:00. Sunrise at Sunset Point at 7:04 — the kids wouldn't get out of the RV, so I watched it alone. The overlooks differ less than you'd think; if you're short on time, Bryce Point alone is enough. The Navajo Loop was spectacular, but after days of walking in the cold the kids were struggling. $15 escort fee for the RV at the Zion tunnel on the east entrance.
DAY 7
Fri 11/15
Zion by e-bike → Valley of Fire
Private vehicles can't drive Zion Canyon, so we rented e-bikes (just over $260). Most exhilarating few hours of the trip. Upper Emerald Pool, honestly, I'm not sure was worth the climb. That night we arrived ten minutes early for the full-moon hike and still missed it (mistake 4). Night at Poverty Flats, free.
DAY 8
Sat 11/16
Fire Wave → return the RV → red-eye home
Pink Canyon (also called Pastel Canyon) from 7:40. The colors were extraordinary, and the snack we ate on a hill halfway round was the single best hour of the trip. Showered and cleaned up in the visitor center lot. Final pack-out took over two hours. RV returned at 19:00, the owner drove us to the airport himself, wheels up 22:06.
DAY 9
Sun 11/17
Home
JFK at 5:43, through the door at 7:00. Looking back, three of the nine nights cost nothing (Walmart / Panorama Point / Poverty Flats). That's the entire reason our campground bill came to about $330.
All nine days are written up with timestamps, temperatures, trail durations and every booking in a single document. The form below opens it immediately.

The full 9-day itinerary, every booking we made, and a packing checklist for three kids. It opens the moment you submit.

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How this differs

"Budget around $500 a day" has never helped anyone actually book the trip.

Typical cost articlesThis page
Where the number comes fromAverages, ranges, calculatorsWhat we actually paid
Party sizeTwo adults2 adults + 3 kids (7, 4, 1)
DatesUsually unstatedNovember 2024 (peak figures shown too)
Money lost to mistakesNever mentionedAll six, published
ItineraryA list of landmarksTimes, arrivals, where we slept
Cold"Mornings can be chilly"1°C (34°F) at sunrise, 9°C (48°F) midday — measured
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The nine-day log, and the packing list.

You've already got the entire cost breakdown above, free. There's one more thing sitting on my hard drive.

Three things, specifically

① The as-driven 9-day log — timestamped from wake-up to lights-out, with trail durations, measured temperatures, and the point each kid stopped walking.
② Every booking we made — the RV company, the four campgrounds we paid for, the three places we stayed free, the tour operator, the bike rental.
③ A packing checklist for three kids — built from what we were glad we brought and what we wished we had.

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Turn "someday" into this year. There's a window for this kind of trip, and it closes.

Questions

FAQ

What does 9 days around the Grand Circle actually cost for a family of five?

Our on-the-ground cost in November 2024 (off-season) was about $4,360. Of that, $2,883.56 is receipted to the cent — RV $2,093.35, three paid campground nights $250.49, the Antelope Canyon tour $291.20, Zion e-bikes $248.52. The rest is reconstructed: roughly $900 food, $400 gas, ~$80 for the Moab campground, $80 for the annual park pass, $15 for the Zion RV tunnel escort. We were living in the US at the time, so no airfare is in that number.

What did the flights cost?

I can't give you a dollar figure, and I won't invent one. We were living in New York and flew JFK ↔ Las Vegas on Delta award tickets — 130,400 miles. The only cash was the September 11th Security Fee: $11.20 each for the two passengers whose receipts I still have. The infant's receipt printed its total as "$NaN USD", and the other two receipts aren't in my inbox. So no cash total exists. What this trip actually cost was ~$4,360 in cash plus 130,400 miles.

How much does the season change the price?

It moves. About half the on-the-ground cost — $2,093.35 — is the RV rental, and that plus the paid campgrounds is what rises in high season. But we didn't travel in high season, so I'm not publishing a multiplier or a number for it. Put a made-up figure on this page and every real figure on it is worth less. The only total I stand behind is the ~$4,360 we actually paid in November. The one claim I'll make is directional: if you can move your dates, that's the largest saving available on this trip.

Why was your campground bill so low?

Three of the seven nights were free. A Walmart lot in Las Vegas, Panorama Point near Capitol Reef, and Poverty Flats. The four paid nights came to roughly $330: Trailer Village at the Grand Canyon $99.25, Goulding's at Monument Valley $36.48, Zion Canyon Campground $114.76, and Sun Outdoors Moab at about $80 (no receipt). Walmart overnight policy varies store to store — check the Walmart Locator rather than assuming. Paid sites under $40 a night do exist.

Is the Grand Circle cold in November?

Yes. Measured: 1°C (34°F) at sunrise at Horseshoe Bend, 4°C (39°F) at midnight in Monument Valley, 5°C (41°F) overnight in Moab, 6°C (43°F) morning at Zion, 9°C (48°F) at midday. The off-season saves thousands, but proper layers aren't optional — and build the time it takes to dress small children into your schedule, because we didn't.

Did the 1-year-old manage OK?

In some places, yes; in others, no. On the Lower Antelope Canyon tour — off-season, so quieter — we were able to set him down and let him walk the back half (the published guidance is to use a carrier and keep both hands free). Canyoneering was a hard no on age limits and we rebuilt the day around it. Age minimums are published in advance; that one was on me.

Is anything for sale here?

Not right now. The full cost breakdown is free on this page. The itinerary and packing list are free too — I ask for an email address and hand them over on the spot. If that ever changes, it will be written on this page.

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